Song Brocade (宋锦)
From silk filament to pictorial brocade: the complete process
Song Brocade (宋锦, Songjin) originated in the Song dynasty and flourished through Ming–Qing. It is renowned for harmonious palettes, delicate motifs, and sophisticated weft patterning. As one of China’s “Three Famous Brocades” (with Shu brocade and Yunjin), Songjin is woven on drawloom/jacquard setups using multiple shuttles to paint images with colored wefts.
Materials & Tools
Silk Filament
Even-denier warp for structure; multiple colored wefts (sometimes gold-wrapped threads) for patterns.
Dyes
Mineral/plant-based colors (e.g., indigo, madder, gardenia) for classic Song-style restrained contrast.
Loom & Apparatus
Drawloom or jacquard head; multiple shuttles; temples, lease sticks, tension controls; finishing press/steam.
End-to-End Workflow (Typical)
- Pattern drafting (图样): Convert motif to point-grid draft; plan warp lifts & weft color passes.
- Silk preparation (煮练/捻度): Scour to remove sericin; reel to cones; verify denier/twist.
- Dyeing: Batch-dye weft colors; rinse, fix, dry; wind onto pirns (1 color = 1 shuttle).
- Warping (整经): Calculate ends and width; beam warp with uniform tension; insert lease.
- Threading & sleying (穿综/穿筘): Thread heddles and reed per draft; check shed quality.
- Draw setup (提花/花楼): Map pattern groups to harnesses or jacquard hooks; test lifts.
- Weft insertion (换纬/打纬): Operate multi-shuttle sequence (background→midtones→highlights) to reduce edge jaggies.
- Float control: Manage long floats on reverse; interlock or tuck where needed.
- Inspection & mending: Fix mis-picks, broken ends; clip floats; re-beat uneven picks.
- Finishing: Steam set; light calendaring; trim; grade by clarity, luster & motif integrity.
Workshops often count 20+ micro-steps within these stages; true Songjin emphasizes refined color transitions (“color casting / color changing”).
Quality Control & Tips
- Tension discipline: frequent warp advance; humidity control to avoid skew.
- Edge guards: use selvage helpers or sacrificial weft when swapping shuttles often.
- Color sequencing: weave background first, highlights last for clean outlines.
Applications
Song brocade appears in garments (jackets, qipao trims), wall hangings, and mounting for paintings/calligraphy. Contemporary studios adapt Songjin for accessories and limited-edition apparel while preserving its understated elegance.