Shu Brocade : Traditional Weaving Process & Full Workflow

Shu Brocade : Traditional Weaving Process & Full Workflow

Shu Brocade (蜀锦)

From silk thread to multi-color jacquard: a classic Chengdu craft

Shu brocade—the famed brocade of Chengdu—evolved over two millennia into a refined system of colorful weft patterning on specialized looms. Its hallmark is sumptuous, pictorial motifs (dragons, flora, roundels) rendered through careful color sequencing and multi-shuttle weaving.

Historic Shu brocade piece
Historic Shu brocade textile. Image: Wikimedia Commons (public domain/CC as listed on file page).

Materials & Color

Silk Filament

Degummed, even-denier warp and weft for crisp pattern edges; occasionally gold-wrapped threads for highlights.

Natural Dye Palette

Traditional mineral/plant dyes (e.g., indigo, madder, gardenia) for rich but harmonious contrasts.

Specialized Looms

Flower-lou (花楼) drawloom or equivalent jacquard setups to lift complex harness groups for pictorial designs.

Design Logic: Warp provides structure (often light/neutral); color and image are mainly carried by patterned weft insertions using multiple shuttles.

End-to-End Workflow

  1. Pattern Drafting (图样): Convert motif into a point-grid draft indicating warp lifts and weft color passes.
  2. Silk Prep (煮练): Scour/degum to remove sericin; reel to cones; check evenness and twist for warp strength.
  3. Dyeing (染色): Batch-dye weft colors; fix and dry; wind onto pirns/bobbins dedicated to each shuttle.
  4. Warping (整经): Calculate ends, lease, and beam the warp with precise tension; insert temples and lease sticks.
  5. Loom Setup (穿综/穿筘): Thread heddles and reed per draft; test harness lifts; align with pattern grid.
  6. Draw Mechanism (提花/花楼): Assign pattern groups; assistant (drawboy/girl) or jacquard head lifts selected harnesses row by row.
  7. Weft Insertion (梭口换纬): Use multiple shuttles for different colors; pack gently to avoid crushing relief; maintain pick density.
  8. Float Control (收浮/打纬): Manage long weft floats on the back; sometimes interlock or tuck to stabilize.
  9. Inspection (修补): Correct mis-picks and broken ends; clip stray floats; re-beat uneven picks.
  10. Finishing (整理): Light fulling/press; steam set; trim; grade by clarity, luster, and motif integrity.

Process Tips from Workshop Practice

  • Color Sequencing: Weave from background to highlight to reduce shuttle changes causing edging jaggies.
  • Tension Discipline: Keep warp tension uniform; use frequent advance and humidity control to prevent skew.
  • Edge Guards: Selvage threads or a sacrificial weft help keep edges clean when swapping shuttles often.
Shu brocade pattern with animals and trees
Shu brocade patterning (animals & trees). Image: Wikimedia Commons (see file license).

Applications & Aesthetic

Classic Shu brocade appears in garments, wall hangings, and ritual textiles. Contemporary studios adapt the craft for accessories, interior trims, and limited-edition apparel while preserving the pictorial, dignified Shu color sensibility.

© 2025 Neo-Chinese Materials Series — Shu Brocade Process
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